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All the big names are from north of the Border: Hendrick’s; The Botanist; Edinburgh Gin; and - more recently - Harris Gin.

“In fact, Scotland can now boast making 70% of gin consumed in the UK.

What’s the point in buying her anything my mother moans. At night I climb over all the newspaper parcels to get to bed, harder than the school’s obstacle course. But she still doesn’t settle down; even at 70 she cleans people’s houses for ten bob and goes to church on Sundays, dragging me along to the strange place where the air is trapped and ghosts sit at the altar.

Her bedroom is my favourite: newspapers dating back to the War covering every present she’s ever got since the War. I spend hours unwrapping and wrapping endless tablecloths, napkins, perfume, bath salts, stories of things I can’t understand, words like conscientious objector. What does she want with anything modern, a shiny new pin? Chewing for ages over the front page, her toffees sticking to her false teeth. Till finally she gets to like the hot running water in her own bathroom, the wall-to-wall foam-backed carpet, the parcels locked in her air-raid shelter.

So it’s no wonder that budding distillers want to get in on the act and tap into the appetite for Scottish craft gin.